It’s
been over a decade since a vineyard along the Crooked River across from Smith
Rock State Park became a pioneer for growing wine grapes in Central Oregon.
That
early beginning has been a stimulus for other vineyards, from small hobbyists
to those aiming for commercial quantity production. And they are proving that even
with the region’s abbreviated growing season and frost risk any time of year,
quality grapes can be produced with proper care and attention to details.
In
2018 there are seven recognized vineyards with 26.5 acres already producing grapes
and anaother 12.5 acres planted within the past year, according to information
from the Central Oregon Winegrowers Association.
That
early Central Oregon estate vineyard, Monkey Face, began in 2006-2007 as four acres
and seven grape varietals at the 1,700 acre Ranch at the Canyons residential estate
homes and working ranch.
The vision of the ranch’s founding developers was
to establish an amenity that would reflect the ambiance and design of Tuscany or
Napa in a setting facing the spectacular rock formations of Smith Rock.
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| Grape cluster at Monkey Face-namesake rock in distance |
What
distinguishes the regional vineyards from those in well-known wine regions such
as California’s Napa, Oregon’s Willamette Valley and Washington’s Yakima and
Walla Walla areas is the focus on planting cold hardy varietals. Weather-sturdy
hybrids have long been planted in cold weather areas of the Northeast, Canada and the upper Midwest.
Rather
than more well-known vinifera
varietals, such as Cabernet, Syrah, Chardonnay, the Central Oregon growers are
mostly focused on French-American hybrids, varietals that were grafted onto France’s
vinifera root stock after a deadly
aphid-caused phylloxera outbreak in the mid-1850s. The hybrids are generally credited with
rescuing vinifera vineyards from what came to be known as the
Great French Wine Blight.
A
few Central Oregon growers have
experimented with planting vinifera
varietals but dramatic cold snaps have resulted in substantial vine loss.
The
region’s arid climate and higher elevation, ranging from 2,700-3,450 feet, not
only limit growing degree days, a standard agricultural measurement, but also
heighten risk of a damaging frost especially in early spring at bud break time
or late summer and fall with fruit on the vine.
The
three-county area of Deschutes, Crook and Jefferson has a typical 80-day
growing season with approximately 1,825 growing degree days, according to Kerry Damon,
president of the Central Oregon Winegrowers Association (COWA). However, certain
areas may have a “microclimate,” often only a few acres, with proximity to heat
producing rock areas, such as Smith Rock, or other protective factors that can
extend growing days.
By
comparison the Walla Walla and Yakima viticultural areas of Washington have more
than 3,000 growing degree days and as many as six months for fruit to develop,
Damon says.
Currently
under cultiviation in Central Oregon are the red varietals Marquette,
Frontenac, Marechal Foch, Leon Millot and St. Croix, with Marquette comprising
the largest planted acreage.
 |
| LaCrescent from Monkey Face, FHC label |
White
varietals include LaCrescent, Vignole, Frontenac Gris, La Crosse, Brianna and
Seyval Blanc. La Crescent and Frontenac Gris account for most acreate of whites
planted.
Among
the recognized vineyards in production, Cindy and Roger Grossmann’s
Faith, Hope & Charity in the Lower Bridge area of Deschutes County is the first combination vineyard and winery
permitted on land zoned for excusive farm use, or EFU. The exception is allowed under an Oregon state law that requires a
minimum of 15 planted acres.
Just north of the county line in Jefferson County, Doug Maragas has established his winery and vineyard on EFU land with a conditional use permit, a different approach than at FHC.
Under
their permit, the Grossmanns can hold events such as weddings on the property
but must sell only the wine produced either from their estate grapes or sourced
elsewhere and bottled with the FHC label. A minimum percentage of the business’
income must come from wine sales.
In
2017 FHC realized its estate bottling from
vines planted in 2011, after earlier bottling LaCrescent sourced
from Monkey Face at Ranch at the Canyons and Syrah from Zerba Cellars in Milton-Freewater,
part of the Walla Walla AVA, or American
Viticultural Area.
Joining
FHC, vineyards now in production are Maragas, Monkey Face, Deschutes River
Vineyard, Rippling Waters and Johnson Creek. Others in the planting or maturing
stage include Deschutes River Vineyard, Grapeyard, Rippling Waters, Iverson and
Cascade Canyon.
Among
challenges other than climate, Damon of the winegrowers association says voracious
birds are high on the list, although rockchucks have also occasionally posed a
problem to vines. Growers can mitigate frost hazards by overhead stream roter irrigation systems
that protect the fruit. For the avian invaders, netting and/or recorded
sound systems with predator calls can be effective.
Processing fruit from vine to bottle for larger producers such as FHC involves contracting with a custom crush facility and winemaker, in FHC's situation Pallet in Medford with winemaker Linda Donovan nurturing grapes in the barrel. Smaller growers have rented crush equpment for limited quanity bottlings, which allows production of 250 gallons per person without facing federal regulations.
At
various presentations to promote the local vineyard movement, Damon often
raises a question that faced early growers:
“Can
you grow wine grapes in Central Oregon? Can you nurture them to maturity?, and
Can you make good wine from them?”
“The
answer,” he quickly responds, “is yes, yes and yes!”
